Ask The Coach

Ask one motorcycle riding related question, and get the answer from a experienced professional rider. Punch in your question as a comment below and Coach will answer as good as he can. We’ll keep track of all questions/answers in the section below so that everyone is able to read it. Coach Can will try to answer in a timely manner.  He’s not obligated to answer and can decline to answer questions.  Please use the contact form below.  Before you can post your question, you need to confirm your email address. You also can read questions/answers beneath the Question form. Scroll down to see them.

Send us your question

3 + 1 = ?

Questions And Coach’s Answers

– – – – –

Question: I live in Reno and ride/race dirt bikes at a decent level. VCGP, MRANN, D36 type stuff. I don’t own a “street” bike, though I do have a plated XR400 I keep around for buddies and as my dual sport. It really just collects dust next to the 300 and 350 though. I don’t, generally speaking, have any interest in riding on the road in North America beyond connecting dirt. However, my wife and I have had a great time travelling by motorcycle 2up outside of the US – Greece, Portugal, Colombia, Indonesia, ect. Usually more dirt focused, but we find ourselves on pavement and windy roads quite a bit. And we are on bikes much larger than purebred dirtbikes. I’m pretty comfortable wrestling the beasts through rocks and dirt with a pillion, but the road stuff sketches me out. Specifically, corners of various types with a pillion at speed. Off camber ascending, descending, sweeping high speed, ect ect ect. The physics of it are all f’d up. The center of gravity is too far back, the bike is heavy, and it is harder to throw it around using the footpegs. Do you have a program you would recommend to increase my skills and confidence in these situations? Do you rent street bikes?

Coach’s answer: Yea, I feel ya. It’s a common phenomenon. Even confident dirt bike riders having a hard time finding their mojo in the other environment, and vice-versa. Both sides of the isle find themselves confused and that breaks their confidence. Furthermore, riding techniques which work in one environment, won’t work properly in the other. So you can’t say these are ‘bad habits’. It’s just the wrong thing to do. Me, as an ex pro MotoGP level rider had to adapt to both and went through this myself, so I know. But once you did… you will gain physical and mental skills for both environments. Ain’t that cool?! So yes, I can help you there big time. Highly recommended to do is my cornering program. This is all about cornering and beyond. Physical skills, and especially mentally. Next entry into this program is on 5/5/. That’ll fix you up. All it takes is trust and commitment. Yes we have street bike rentals, but I think we should be a little strategic here. You might be better off just using your XR since you are use to it and will use for street riding. Exploring on our little track what it actually can do and what not. Another advantage would be to bring your wife. She’d join the class as a passenger and learns together with you about the concepts and physics for street riding, cuz’ I see too many times that the rider is limited to what their passengers are capable off. I don’t have the time explaining the issues here in detail, but their behavior and limits have a huge influence as well. And hell… this is fun to do as well :-) She’d pay only half the class fee. If you rather would like to rent one, we could give you a Supermoto. That is at least some kind of ‘dirt bike’ but screams for rippin’ asphalt. Does this sound like you’re in the right place?! Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: Hello Coach, I just purchased a Ducati Panigale v4r and I am hoping to build skills on a track. I have been street riding for 8 plus years on all styles of bikes and I really am interested in getting competitive on a track. I have never been on a track before however I consider myself an experienced rider who loves speed. Which class should I sign up for?

Coach’s answer: Congrats. Great bike. Good that you ask, because most riders don’t and want big track right away. Then they realize how much they actually missing. I’d say we approach this with strategy, and for the fact that it’s off season, it will support what I have to suggest. You start out with our cornering program, which is track introduction same time. By the time when you’re done with it, we can do a track drill somewhen in March/April, so when the big tracks are back open. You’ll learn a lot of stuff in a way more dense way and way more cheaper as well, and that will put a track drill on a whole lotta different level. How does that sound? Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: I have a fly by wire bike and I want to change the grips but the old grips have a 2 pin plug on the right side and on the left side the grip has to complete wires on them. I don’t see any wires like these on the replacement grips on my Harley why is that and what do these wires do?

Coach’s answer: Don’t know exactly what you see there, but I guess the cables you see are grip warmers. That has nothing to do with the ‘fly by wire’ system.  Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: I am asking a question about gear shifting, I am new to riding and I don’t know if this is okay to do or not. whenever I’m riding and I see a red light or stop sign coming up, If I’m in 4th gear I would shift all the way down to first gear in one clutch pull while slowing down to a stop at the stop sign. Is it okay to do this since I would be within the speed of first gear or should I go down one by one until I get to first?

Coach’s answer: Good that you ask Danny. It works, sure, but it’s not good for four reasons. Coming down the gears within one clutch pull out of higher speeds can damage your transmission, especially if you don’t have a slipper clutch. You actually should feel some hefty clonks when you do that. Most importantly though- you actually need to learn to establish a smooth downshift pattern for either- slowing down for a traffic light, or for turns. One shift at a time makes it easier to find the right gear for every turn. If you make what you do a habit, then this becomes more or less a guessing game, and you might even end up locking the rear tire when ending up in a too low of a gear. You can get in trouble quick there. That might also creates another habit, which is to control corner speed with engine brake and having this f’n with your momentum towards an apex. Lastly, you skip on the engine brake for an emergency braking  when pulling the clutch till you stay. Hope this helps. If not… come see us in the cornering school!  Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: When counter-steering to go into a curve, do you continue to counter-steer through the curve, or do you eventually turn the handlebar in the direction you want to go?

Coach’s answer: Sorry Ken, but I don’t teach riders via email. The outcome would be the same as if you would watch a video or read a book about it. In the end there is no quality control of how you do and what needs to be fixed till you got it. No sales pitch (cuz’ we book up with or without you), but this is part of our cornering school day 2 class.  Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: : Preparing to pour chase bike for touring – I’m a small guy – 5’8” 160 lbs – like the idea of 1100 to 1200 cc because of power and comfort but would an 850 to 900 be enough for me – again, will use bike mostly for touring; Long weekend trips as well as an annual 2 week tour

Coach’s answer: I think the your criteria to pick a bike shouldn’t be power- it should be what fits best. That is where it gets comfy or not. I’d suggest to go pick bikes, and then make a bunch of dealership visits to test sit or ride them. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: : Hi Coach–I have a 2012 Ducati 796 Monster. I upgraded the front forks (fully adjustable w/Racetech springs). The rear shock is the stock Sachs (dampening only). I’m not sure if I should get a fully adjustable rear shock, or standard (dampening adj only). I signed up for your Suspension class as well as cornering classes. I usually ride in the mountains (twisties). Not sure if I’ll notice a difference between the two different rear shocks.

Coach’s answer: Good question. It could be that an upgraded front end exposes the lack of rebound/compression of the rear shock. It could overwhelm the rear end so that you don’t have a satisfying result, even though you’ve upgraded it. Kinda one problem fixed- one added. However, I’m sure we’ll find a solution at the suspension workshop class- if not, you have at least certainty of what direction to go. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: : Where does someone in california go to begin his career if he wanted to become a professional racer?

Coach’s answer: That question demanded to be way more specific as you may like Freddy. I wanted to give it max honest approach so the answer is quite longer and answered hereHeadcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: : I have learned that it is better when going over lines in the pavement, or on the metal-grate bridges in Alameda, that it is better to relax my hands and let the bike wiggle around a little. It goes fine: gripping the handle-bars trying to prevent it does not help. My question is regarding holding on with my legs: When and how much? I had thought that I could grab on with my legs when the bike wiggles around, such as in corners going over bad pavement, but my dad, who is an experience rider and racer, says its wasted effort- just relax and guide the bike, let it move if it wants. What do you think?

Coach’s answer: Dad is half way right. The front end will find its way, but your knees should get into the gas tank so that your body doesn’t support the wiggle. How much is depending on many things, and I ain’t got no crystal ball son. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: Coach,  why is this sport so cutthroat?

Coach’s answer: Any sport kinda is cutthroat son, BUT… motorsports has that extra edge I believe nowhere else to find. It combines human, competition, ego, social, tech, environment, feel, emotion, life, and even death. The higher your level- the higher all this goes. It all keeps ramping up limitless. It consumes your soul.. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: Hey Coach,  getting my bike back from the shop next week ( accident in November ) considering adding 8 inch risers for my handlebars, for someone who loves the turns will this be an improvement or should deterrent ? ( in your professional opinion ). Thanks man. Looking forward to Corning School V3, then probably time to book a one one on one with the master.

Coach’s answer: Would love to do a 1on1 with you Mark. To your question… hard to say without knowing more details, but let me try. I would say now if A) the handlebar is hold in rubber mounts (would delay your counter steering, but thats maybe something you could work out)- or B) If the bar brings your hands above shoulder line (the more your hands above shoulders the less strength you have in those arms). Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: Was interested in getting this cornering class for myself (rider of 5 years) and a new rider. Would this be an appropriate course for a newer rider?

Coach’s answer: Yes Diego, for us it has no matter at all what the skill set is. Our logic and experience is, that everyone needs us. Never too early- never too late. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: I like what I’ve found here in your article about making adjustments. I’m riding a 2017 HD Ultra Limited Touring Full Dress bike. Looking to make suspension setup changes so that it handles much more like the sport touring setup than a typical HD setup. I’m not too fond of having people who say, “it’s not a crotch rocket, so it shouldn’t handle like one”. While there may be some truth in that, I still think that two wheels is two wheels and the physics of making it better should still apply. Of course, I don’t expect it to handle exactly the same as a superbike. BUT, back in the day, I could throw around my old XS1100 fully dressed with Fairing & Bags around the canyons & highways in the San Diego area Santee > Ramona, 94, Sunrise Highway, etc. So, to that point … I’m not one to make excuses for the bike being a bigger bike. I should be able to make it move the way I want it to move (at least more so that it make the bike handle safer).
My question then is simply this: Do the physics and adjustments / troubleshooting of handling for the superbike, still apply to the larger bike … i.e. how too soft or too hard a spring rate in front / rear effect understeer / oversteer, etc. ??? Or, is there some reason that the physics of adjustments here in the Superbike-Coach site not apply? I mean, if I want the bike to turn in quicker (currently understeering on entry), are my options for adjustment / consideration the same as if it were a superbike? Even if it won’t be as nimble as the SB. I’m going to be replacing the stock suspension both in front and in the rear, so I’m hoping to make wise decisions to how I set up the bike. I know that this is not a typical question, since it isn’t a superbike, but I sure do want my bike to handle the twisty’s better than stock does … even if it is only going 50 mph instead of 150 mph. Thanks much, I hope my question made some sense … at least a little bit. ;-)

Coach’s answer: Nothing is wrong to make a motorcycle more rideable, and so more enjoyable- no matter what category of bike it is. You are correct. The physics are the same for a cruiser as it is for a MotoGP prototype. Only the range of influence in adjustments is limited, and that’s what works against you here a little. The geometry and weight of your HD is a quantum jump away to never be able to get it to the abilities of a Sportbike. Also the weight, sitting position (so weight distribution) won’t ever give you your XS feel. All this, should not hold you back from maxing out what you have. Yes, the troubleshoot is comparable. As for now your adjustment range is limited to swap springs (to your rider weight) and oil viscosity (most likely heavier oil). Generally… the stiffer you go, the more nimble it gets, up to the point where it gets uncomfortable. Also braking ability will gain with this move. Importance for line stability will be to ‘balance’ front to rear (in and out travel). Then play around with your air pressures. You should come to our workshop & track time class Kent. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: I have a CBR650F. I know your track is somewhat small so I’m wondering if it’d be better for me to rent a smaller bike for the knee down course or if you think mine will suffice.

Coach’s answer: Let me answer with counter questions… What is the difference of a big or small track in regard engine output since weight and size are about the same?! This track is wider than any road lane you know, or am I wrong?! And what is the significance here when it’s about to learn something?! I know, but I hope it helps to see through this. Do ya? Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: I was interested in possibly signing up for your cornering school classes but had a question regarding pricing.  I’m cross shopping XXXXXXX novice track day schooling, which will likely be more tailored towards riding track days, while yours may be more universal and probably transfer some of most of those skills towards track, but I noticed your Cornering School are 3-4 “steps” or days.  Is the $139 price inclusive of all 4 days or is it $139/each class?

Coach’s answer: This is the best training you can possibly get… but 4 days for 139 bux including track fees, snacks/water, state of the art coaching and free photography?… sorry no, that’s per class. Hope we’ll see you anyway. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: What would be the consequences if i rode a 160 back tire and 110 front on my R3? Sincerely, Michelle.

Coach’s answer: Well, to give this an answer i would need to know what the rear rim size is. Let’s say you have an oem size: That would squeeze the rear tire out of it’s ‘natural’ shape and takes slightly grip level away and those chicken strips are harder to get to. The tire is more pointy and also influences geometry (good or bad). Now let’s say you have a appropriate rim for that tire: It causes a slight loss in regard agility and there is more lean necessary to achieve the same corner speed as before (see motogp). Generally the purpose of a wider rear tire is to cover horsepower on exits. Your R3 doesn’t have much of that, so…    Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: How big are your wheelie classes? In other words, what is the max number of students per class? Besides bringing my own bike and gear. What else do I need to bring the class?

Coach’s answer: 33. 3 work stations. So 11 per group. What else to bring: Motivation, an open mind, patience, balls, smartness, heart, team spirit. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: Coach – I was nicely trail braking into an unknown turn, and at the point where I come off the throttle and am gliding through the apex, I see the vanishing point start to open up. I am about to throttle up to speed out of it and a new turn surprises me with a hidden decreasing radius in the same direction. Yowza! What strategy would you suggest to continue safely without losing it? John DeSantis

Coach’s answer: That’s a very detailed description with only three short sentences. Very cool :) OK, since we’re not idiots who are riding too fast into unknown turns- the strategy would be hold the apex by maintaining the lean and throttle off until you see the exit. If you realize an increasing radius while trail braking- you’d also maintain lean by staying longer on the trail brake. Maintaining lean is the key on both solutions, cuz’ that is the compensation here.   Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: I liked your set up with the low mirrors on the Multistrada Enduro which should do a better job at not breaking when/if the bike tips :-) Can you tell me what brand / type these mirrors are on the road and how they function compared to stock? Much appreciated, Alex

Coach’s answer: Sure. I like them because they don’t make the bike feel like a truck and they are not in the way when you stand in your rear sets. Though… sight is a little less, but fair enough. Not sure on the ‘not braking’ though. I’ve broke pretty much everything in my riding career :) But, for only 14 bux for a set- it is a steal vs Ducati replacements. Installation is kindergarten. No mods necessary. I’ll send you the link via email.    Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: I wanted to come for the knee down and wheelie class. Can u explain a few questions as i was coming from Kentucky.
.Would two classes back to back be fine
.Which airport is closer ?
.What hotel do you recommend to stay in Stockton
.Which bikes do you have for the knee down and wheelie. Do we rent them ?
.Do you supply gear or i should bring mine ?

Coach’s answer: Absolutely. Most riders who are coming to us with long travels are taking advantage of both classes. Double the learn with us- and double the fun.  If you never been in California, then San Francisco Airport should be your choice, and to visit an amazing city at the same time. Our rentals are a Ninja 250R and a KTM520 Supermoto and they come on race tires, with gas and a wheelie bar (Superm.). Just opt them with your booking and pay the fee later. We prefer to bring your own gear. See you soon.    Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: Rain, wet road, exit roundabout, from the apex towards exit turning left. I over-steer the front tire a little, like its slipping, meanwhile, I’m starting to get my weight to the right to turn right and too keep my balance to get rid of the front slipping over-steer, which the bike exits the front slip and then taking the right turn. If i would lean left with the bike, the font would slip further and i would crash from losing front grip. Is it because i ride bikes for more than 20 years I’m able to keep it straight :)? or yeah just an instinct maneuver saving myself and the bike. I guess rake is a bit on the short side and the rear has much more grip than the front. Would stiffer springs ( front preload) help to prevent front slipping? Its a honda grom 125cc and my weight is +300lbs.

Coach’s answer: Too many variables have an influence to answer this properly. Technically: tires, air pressure, worn status, geometry. Road: oil, sand, ditch, etc. Rider: bad line, harsh steering, harsh throttle, etc. Also, I don’t know that bike. Sorry. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: I was getting into racing via track days and was given ok to get license but have not done it it since I high sided at the track 2x in row after. It was just too expensive and I couldn’t afford it. However, I am always interested in improving my riding but was wondering if day 1 is a must to do day 2 etc.?

Coach’s answer: Counter question to you… what makes you think day 1 is not good for you? Especially when you high side all the time you should be open to suggestions, because picking wrong lines vs throttle could be the reason for high siding all the time… and all that IS DAY 1. So no day 2 without a day 1. That’s our logic here. I’m worried that this is not your logic. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: I recently purchased a dedicated track day bike in order to get back to riding in a more controlled environment vs street riding. The bike is an SV650 and it currently has Slick tires front and rear SC1 front, SC2 on the rear. They still have some life left in them and I got another set with the bike. Would I be better off taking them off to take part in cornering schools and track time at the little 99 due to not getting enough heat in them, and use a sport tire? (I have tire warmers, need a power source though). Thanks in advance!

Coach’s answer: :-) who says you don’t get enough heat in your slicks. I’m running slick tires there all the time, and I don’t even use tire warmers. Those are better tires than any sport tire. Period.  Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: Hello, I am a lawyer at the XXXXXX County Public Defender’s Office and I have a client who was arrested for going 130 on a fairly empty freeway. I am looking for information as to whether riding at this speed can be something that can be performed safely. Thanks, Ebony K.

Coach’s answer: Mrs. K., I appreciate you are contacting Superbike-Coach Corp in this matter as we always try to help out, so here is my take on this. Speeding is a strict liability crime.  So, it is irrelevant whether driving over the posted legal limit is “safe”.  So, I assume your client was arrested for a violation of ‘Cal. Vehicle Code § 22350’, which provides, “No person shall drive a vehicle upon a highway at a speed greater than is reasonable or prudent having due regard for weather, visibility, the traffic on, and the surface and width of, the highway, and in no event at a speed which endangers the safety of persons or property.”  See also ‘CACI 706’.  The statutory language says it all:  whether a speed is “safe” depends on many conditions, which are not revealed in your question.  I would add that the mechanical condition and properties of the motorcycle, the rider’s training and physical condition, and safety gear are also very important to determine what speed is “safe” under any circumstances. There are conditions under which driving a motorcycle at 130 MPH would be reasonable.  A well-trained rider riding a sound motorcycle in appropriate safety gear (leathers, body armor, helmet, armored gloves, track boots) riding on a closed racetrack with supervision of corner workers and with emergency medical personnel on standby can reasonably ride 130 MPH and beyond. California freeways are full of hazards, including grooved pavement, potholes, and other unforgiving impact zones.  We would never teach our students to ride that fast on public roads. Legally- 130 MPH on a public road is about as safe as holding yourself out as a lawyer before you receive a juris doctor and pass the bar, so I hope you are not getting in trouble for doing so Mrs. Koger.  Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: Hey coach, I have a technical question about tire pressure. I’ve installed a bigger tire to my bike as my bike weight is 286 lbs only. The PROBLEM is that the tire manufacturer recommends 37 psi on the rear tire, while other recommend only 33 psi rear for better grip which should i follow? Malik

Coach’s answer: 37 seems quite high Malik. Did you eventually read this off the tire wall? If yes- that ain’t the recommended tire pressure, but the maxed out PSI recommendation. According to the low weight of your bike, it would make sense to go way lower. Let’s go with 33 of psi. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: Hey coach, so your trackday on 3/20 will have 4 groups standing, (15 min per session)? for $150 how many groups can you ride? because 15 min sessions for $150 on a 2 mile track? I plan to purchase a ticket with your group by the end of this week permit weather. Annie

Coach’s answer: 15 min on a short track which has pretty much NO straights to relax = 20 minutes on a 3 mile track. 4 groups doing 7 sessions each. Also… a SUNDAY track day on a only 1 mile longer track goes for about 190 bux. Put this in a percentage if you still don’t see the relation. Good luck getting a available ticket next week. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: Hey Coach do you think anyone can benefit from a slick tire (Dunlop KR448 / KR449 in my case). Or until a very advanced level is reached they are not worth the money. I’m speaking about a dedicated track bike. Your advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks! Sebastian

Coach’s answer: Good question Sebastian, and good guessed as well. 1) you can’t ‘appreciate’ the resources a slick could give you (actually most of the racers are not even there yet). 2) Slicks are bad when cold. They need temperature you can’t get in at a certain pace. 3) shorter life span. 4) softer carcass. They need a different setup. They will be worth the money for you soon. But for now I would think of Dunlop Q3 or something. Even a DOT race tire would be a slight better idea than a slick, but it goes close to it. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: Hi Coach, I have a question about motorcycle clothing.  All the leather clothing is available in perforated and non-perforated. Which do you use most often?  Which do you recommend for students? Thanks, Greg

Coach’s answer: As a racer I use perforated only, and I never had a safety problem with it- if you question goes that way. They are lighter and keep you cooler, but in the end it’s all preference. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: Hi Coach, Im interested in attending the CSD courses as I have heard many good things about it. I’m not sure which bike to use. I have a 2002 CBR600 F4i and a Honda Grom 125cc and trying to figure out which one should i take to the class that would benefit me the most. I have about 6000 miles worth of seat time combined. I’m definitely more comfortable on the Grom since its a smaller bike and i can probably learn faster. But part of the course is to learn to deal with fears so i think i could benefit riding on the CBR600 as well. I’m torn between the two. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks. Tim

Coach’s answer: Without knowing exactly which one you really want to learn to ride… I am guessing the big bike, so I would take the motorcycle out, which also matches more the dynamics of the Cornering School program. But hey, why don’t you just bring both in case you absolutely can’t make it work. I am totally on your page anyway. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: …my bike has more touring sttle bars on it although its still a sport bike. Alot of people have clip ons, and they seem to tell me that clip ons provide the best handling control over the bike. Is this true? I enjoy my bike and enjoy riding it and getting low around corners. But im getting tired of people telling me this. What is your opinion. I will definitely listen to what you say over these random people however i don’t know if this is true. Thanks for your time. Kris

Coach’s answer: First off… everyone is different, so there is no “what’s good for some- most be automatically good for you”. If it feels good for you, then this should be acceptable for anyone else. But here some logic physics…  A lever amplifies an input force to provide a greater output force– so the longer/bigger the leverage is… the less input it needs to get the same job done on the other end. Bigger/wider handlebar = better handling. Now- and that’s the most important part to understand especially for your clip-on buddies- If non of you does perform ‘Counter steering‘ well or at all… then the clip-on opinion would be right, just because of the fact that the upper body is lower then on a bike where you sit upright- but that’s relative. Point is… if you would sit on a Goldwing and perform a great counter steer job on that wide handlebar… you’d make the clip-on party look real bad in tight chicanes.  I fact… wider handle/lever… less work- better handling. But in the end I’d put it as a ‘rider preference’ thang. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: If a bike is equipped with a slipper clutch do you recommend training to downshift without clutch?

Coach’s answer: When I downshift my Supermoto (with slipper cl) in low speeds/rpm’s- then I don’t clutch. In high speeds/rpm’s though- I use the clutch because I don’t need surprises right there and gives me a better feeling while trail braking. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: When applying brakes how many fingers do you recommend I currently use 2. I’ve heard about some using one and that way more of hand is availing when blipping throttle on downshift.

Coach’s answer: That’s a minor ‘issue’, and it’s mainly rider preference. I use 2 fingers too, some do 1, Valentino Rossi uses 3. In fact it helps to blip- but mostly having that right handle bar at least in some kind of fist. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: Dave and I were discussing the braking we learned yesterday, more specifically using the front brake only. I was wondering since Dave has ABS does the same issues with the back brake exist or is able to use both brakes? He is wondering if trail braking is changed by ABS.

Coach’s answer: No- ABS won’t have an influence while Trail Braking. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: I am interested in taking some of your courses. I don’t have medical insurance. Can I still take the course? I should be starting a new job that provides insurance in the near future so I can wait until then if necessary. Do I need race compound tires for track day courses? I’m running Michelin Pilot Power 3 up front and Pilot Road 3 rear on my 05 GSXR600. They grip very well but I’m not sure if they could handle high speed cornering. Are there tech requirements such as taping headlight, safety wire, etc?

Coach’s answer: Medi insurance is not required to take our street or track classes. We recommend to have one, but it’s pretty much on you when you sign and agree our waivers. I personally haven’t had an medi insurance for 4 years riding on tracks, and adjusted the pace I was going to this fact. No, you don’t need race tires. The pilot 3 is comparable to Dunlops Q3. These tires are pretty good and give you lots of feedback, while a race tire gives you a little bit more grip- but also less feedback, but that’s priority for a first time track rider. You need to remove or tape mirrors. Taping all lights is enough, and no safety wiring is required. You are all set if you have proper street rider gear with protectors in the right places. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: hi, im currently riding a kawasaki ninja 250r (2013). currently i’m using the stock tyre front-110, rear-140. i’m planning to upgrade to a better more grip tyre. what tyre should i choose? should i stick with the standard size or upgrade to 120, 150? would appreciate any feedback from you. Ahmed

Coach’s answer: From a technical point of view- you shouldn’t change tire size on stock rims. I though understand that you want to change the esthetic of the bike. OK, if you want to keep on going with stock rims… the next bigger tire size (110>120, 130>140) isn’t much of a big deal and “technically OK”- but 2 sizes up on the rear is quite much. Dunlop recommends a 4.25 wide rim for a 150.  A 140 is fair enough. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: Can, will you give me your ‘Moto Project Bike’ and train me to become a Motogp racer?

Coach’s answer: Of course… noooot :-)

– – – – –

Question: On the twistiest I go on, often there is gravel in the corners. Usually I overreact and go way too slow because I am nervous, and other times I try to avoid it, but end up going right through it, which makes me slide. What do you do in a situation where you are going around a corner fast and there is gravel? Danielle

Coach’s answer: Seems you stare at the gravel which makes you go over it. Stare at the clear line instead. If you hit the gravel, do not brake, try to deal with it by rolling through off the throttle and keeping the line. Use the inside line- which gives you more room to the outside to roll out if you have to stand up the bike. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: Coach, what do you think about lane sharing?

Coach’s answer: Stay away from doing it if your braking and steering skills don’t allow to do lane sharing. Don’t go too fast and watch the cars moving. Don’t do it if you see a gap where a car could jump lane, or when when cars try catch an exit. Cover your brake and make sure you’re not braking on reflectors. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: Hello Coach, I noticed that Dani Pedrosa is able to stand up his bike earlier as other top MotoGP riders. Why?

Coach’s answer: Dani is very small. When centrifugal force builds up while accelerating out of a turn- his low body weight is kicking in. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: Hello Coach, I have a 2006 Ninja 650r and I would like to upgrade my bike but I am not sure what to upgrade to would you have any recommendations?

Coach’s answer: Hard to say, without knowing your budget- nor the purpose (fancy or  useful) of the upgrade: Invest in adjustable stuff. Gilles Tooling has best clip on’s, rear sets, and levers. That makes your bike adapt to  YOU (if you are dealing with numb hands or sore legs). If it’s about power- go with K$N race air filter, a Leo Vince full  exhaust, and Dynojet Powercommander V. Bigger stuff has Wiseco (race  pistons, cam shafts). The cheapest way to gain lots of acceleration is,  to sprocket rear up- and front sprocket down by 1 tooth. Thrust Company has sprocket kits for all bikes, and convert to a 520 chain with a DID  racing chain. Suspension is a big topic, but more than worth to think about it (gain  grip and control). A set of fork springs which are matching to you are  not expensive (http://www.racetech.com/). A fully adjustable rear shock puts you pretty much on a higher rider level. Get a better braking with HEL steel brake lines, and Bikemaster brake  pads (sinter). If you want premium… upgrade to BST Carbon rims and use ceramic  bearings only (huge general weight reduction, more acceleration, top  speed, handling, and style. For more info and inspiration visit http://www.moto-projectbike.com  Did I nail it? Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: Hi Coach, I am a new rider and am about to sign up for the Cornering level1 class. Bought a new Gsx 600 as my first bike and do not have much riding experience ( i did ride back in my home country India, but the bikes were relatively less poweful) with the GSX i am comfortable riding in the free ways and within the city, but my cornering , turning sucks big time. I went to ride with a bunch of riders last week and could see that i had to literally come to a stop every time i had to turn and many times i was almost about to run into the side of road. I wanted to know if I should be getting my own bike for the class or should i go for one of your rental bikes?

Coach’s answer: Well, our Cornering School program would be the right place for you then, but please keep in mind that we are not taking Day-1 as a ‘level’. This is part of everyone’s education at Superbike-Coach. In regard your bike… why renting when you have a great bike to use already? Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –

Question: I was just thinking, you may have a great suggestion for tires on my Mad Dog Honda XR-200 on cement indoor track. I’m thinking soft to med-soft tires since there is very little power and cool track (winter). Grip is everything of coarse.

Coach’s answer:  Hm, I guess you race in a slow oval, do ya? I probably would use the softest slicks I can get. Continental has some soft compound and hand made. You’ll have to use tire warmers and relatively low air pressure. I also would consider to cut treads on the left side (I guess that’s where you going?) like this (pic). That heats the tire up quicker. Hope that helps Dan. Good luck, and let me know how it went. Headcoach Can Akkaya

– – – – –